Written By Anna Sampson
Editted by Sean Azeez-Bright
After day one of fashion week I was contemplating not bothering with the other three days. Surely I had seen it all. After a performance of ‘mud people’ at Charles Jeffrey Loverboy’s show at MAN, a 2017 take on ‘A Clockwork Orange’ by Liam Hodges and an epilepsy inducing collection at TOPMAN, can you blame me? Brushing shoulders with the likes of Conor Maynard and his clique also made me feel star struck and overwhelmed. Despite the shows and celebs leaving me speechless.
LFWM lived up to its reputation. Photographers relentlessly chased ‘eccentric’ fashionistas down the road and would fawn over them even more if they were stepping out of a GQ Guest Service car. There was a cool, collected ‘I’ve done this before’ buzz that formed before the shows, as people helped themselves to the free beer and popcorn provided for all! (Thanks LFW). Here are the collections that were shown during the week.
Oliver Spencer’s collection is emblematic for the classic man with an edge. I’m talking about the type of man who has an attention for detail and always offers his coats to the ladies because he’s so well insulated. A classic man isn’t defined by age, so all the models on the runway were anywhere from nineteen to sixty five.
Typical for autumn winter, most of the colours featured were greys, navy blues and blacks, however zest was added by garments of woody green deep red. Oliver Spencer gave more than enough variety in his collection- something for every Tom, Dick and Harry.
Some of the standout pieces were the zig zagged cardigans, baby pink jacket and red velvet bomber jacket. Accessories were key to adding the edge that this classic man requires, so most outfits were accompanied by a funky pair of reading glasses, a leather bag, or a fur hat.
Matthew Miller’s collection was titled ‘Fear Itself’, with the slightly vague concept of ‘Protecting oneself in the post truth era.’ An unsettling tone was already created before the clothes were showcased, by the choice of music. It wasn’t really music, more of a ‘spoken word’ type thing, fit with screaming and struggling noises.
Perhaps Miller wanted the audience to feel scared, but unfortunately I didn’t have anything to protect myself from the models who each had red stripes painted on their face, which made me think he must have watched “Saw” too many times.
The clothes were mostly black, featuring hoodies embellished with zips and ribbons, handy for storing tools for self defence.. I guess? The black was made less mundane by the red, washed down scarves that were thrown loosely over the outfits, perhaps shedding some light on this very dark display. One jacket resembled a bullet proof vest.
Casely- Hayford’s collection was one of the most interesting collections of AW 17. There was a juxtaposition of being elegant whilst also being disheveled.
Many oversized jackets were featured in the collection, with fabrics ranging from wool to gore-tex, sure to keep the most cold blooded piping hot. Cropped knitted jumpers were layered over cardigans, which looked great on the catwalk.
One of my favorite pieces was a dress that reminded me of a Van Gogh painting, with a dark blue base filled with trees, flowers and stars.
Several of these garments were teamed with shoes that reminded me of when people waterproof their shoes by putting plastic bags over them. Or perhaps a recycled bowling shoe. Perhaps Casely-Hayford was striving to create a collection that was innovative enough. Despite this, the show was commendable, both for menswear and womenswear.